Lightening Storms and your Dog

Does your dog act like it is the end of the world whenever a storm hits? Does he or she cower, run and hide at every clap of thunder? Fortunately, there are ways to minimize this behavior and cast away your dog's fear.


Steps

1 During a thunderstorm, do not console your frightened dog. Do not cuddle and be their protector. If you do this, how do you think the dog will cope when you are not there? If you hug your dog each time that he runs to you during the thunder, and say, "It's okay, it's okay...", your dog will assume that you are available to do this whenever the dog comes looking for protection. If you act like he needs protection, he's going to assume he needs it. Additionally, your dog might think that you are praising it for being afraid. If it learns that cowering in the corner during bad weather yields hugs and kisses, it will form the habit of doing that every storm.

2 Train your dog to chase away the thunder and lightning. During a thunderstorm, get your dog's attention by saying in an excited voice, "What is that?" a few times. Then command him/her to "Get it!". The "Get it" can be done by barking at the vile noise. This gives them power over their fear. Guess what? The lightning/thunder stops after a few seconds. Your dog has saved the day by making it stop! Verbally reward your dog, thanking them for stopping the thunder and lightning!

Limit the amount of time the dog spends chasing the thunder. After three laps, for example, the thunder will have subsided and you can say, "Good !! Okay, come on. It's all gone!" Lots of love and hugs for his astounding job of protecting both of us! If he tries to continue after three laps, though, gently but firmly, reprimand him, "That's enough. It is all gone. Come!". Don't replace one obsession with another.

Train the dog so she is able to do this inside, in case there is a concern about lightning striking, or if the dog is home alone when a storm comes.

3 Desensitize the dog. There are CDs that you can purchase which make the noises of a thunderstorm. Play them at various times of day, starting with the volume very low. Make it louder and louder until the dog is used to it. This will only partially desensitize the dog, since there are also electrical disturbances in a storm that can't be mimicked by a CD.


4 Use dryer sheets. It sounds weird, but many dogs dislike lightning because it causes static in their fur. Rubbing your dog down with a dryer sheet will help make the uncomfortable sensations go away, and maybe even send him back to sleep! (But see Warnings, below)

Tips

If the dog's anxiety level is so high that it destroys the house trying to find refuge from the storm, or it spreads anxiety to other dogs in the house, ask a veterinarian about having a sedative on hand to deal with this

If your dog is very young and is experiencing thunderstorms for the first time, you will have a much easier time to keep him from being frightened. Simply act around him like there's nothing going on. If the dog see's his/her owner acting like usual, the dog is going to assume everything is fine, and will act according to that. This also works for dogs that are afraid of fireworks.



Warnings

Do NOT let the dog chew dryer sheets as he/she can get VERY sick!

Be careful when playing rough games, especially indoors. If a loud clap of thunder booms, the dog may get scared and bump into something or try to bite.

Sedated dogs may have a difficult time traversing stairways, so be careful! Carry your dog if at all possible, or walk lower on the stairs relative to them, to stop them if they slip and fall.

Don't scold your dog for showing fear during a storm. That only gives your dog another reason to be afraid.

Our thanks to WikiHow

Second Service Dog Class

Several weeks ago we welcomed two new dogs into our *active* Service Dog training program. Jade is a Giant Schnauzer and Lexi is a Springer Spaniel. Jade is being trained as a Physical Assistant dog and Lexi is working to become an Emotional Assistant. Both are doing well for their prospective *jobs*.

Jade learns fast and is very eager to do her job. She is assisting her owner in a variety of ways already. She has learned to help her off with her clothes, open wheelchair access doors, retrieve a variety of items as instructed pick up things that her owner drops and hand them back to her, and to *go get______* when her owner needs help. She will go to that person, paw them and then lead them back to where ever her owner is at. She is in the process of learning to drop items into a basket or throw things into the trash.

Lexi has a little more trouble staying focused to her task, but she too is learning to open wheelchair access doors, *give hugs*, pick up items that have been dropped, and generally stay at her owners side, lending comfort and support when needed. She is working on bringing items back as directed (medicine bottles etc).

We have been working at various stores, Castleton Mall, and an ever changing array of eating establishments. Both Lexi and Lade are doing extremely well in the LEAVE IT department. Two weeks ago we were working at the food court in Castleton Mall where I pushed the envelope on their LEAVE IT training. To start with the owners were to go get in line (a line of their choosing), order food and or drink and pay for it. Their dogs needed to remain in a polite sit position at the owners side. When they received their orders they were to go sit down with their dogs under their tables out of the way. The dogs were not to bother any other patrons, nor disturb their owners in any way. The dogs all did really well with this so I *upped* the stakes again.

I bought a plain hot dog and had them cut it into pieces. I put them in the card board *boat* and placed it on the floor between the two tables/dogs. Neither bothered it or broke their position under the tables. Seeing this we upped it a little bit more. I took the hot dog pieces and scattered them in a line on the floor. I then had each owner/dog team practice the conscious decision leave it while walking their dogs past the food. Since they did well with this exercise we tested them further. I had the owner put their dog on a sit stay on one end of the line of food and then they moved down to the other end. We stationed helpers along the line just in case one of the dogs made a break for the food. After leaving them to sit/stay for 30 seconds or so, the owners then called their dogs to COME. Jade went first in this exercise and never bothered with the food or tried to run beyond her owner. EXCELLANT JOB JADE!

Next was Lexi's turn, she too did well though she made one try for the food with the second hot dog piece she went past. Our helper grabbed the food back from her as her owner corrected her. We then tried again, each dog/team running through this exercise several times. Each time after Lexi's first mistake was a good run for her as well. GOOD JOB LEXI!

All in all both of these teams are doing very well and have progressed nicely in their training. We have three more classes to go through before we test off for their first level. In tonight's class we will be at the local hospital working our dogs in the elevators, hallways and the lobby. I have high hopes for them both! After this class completes we will be welcoming one or two more into our program. Keep looking for us!

And please remember, the dogs are in training and are not to be petted while working! We all thank you for your co operation.

Kristi
Service Dog Trainer

Furthering the training with our Service Dogs

Our two current Service Dog in training puppies have completed their second round of obedience training and are doing VERY well. They both passed their Canine Good Citizen tests and have ordered their Service Dog vest and badges. Both Jade and Lexi are off to be spayed now, but when they have healed and are ready to rejoin us, we will be out hitting the stores malls and restaurants with them, furthering their training. When we work together you will be once again seeing Lugnut, Sophie 1 and Sophie 2 leading the way, with Lexi and Jade working hard to catch up to their skill levels. Soon we will also have Jake, an American Pit Bull joining us, along wth Aster the Airedale. Both Jake and Aster have a long way to go though, as they are  involved in just their first training class.

Most often you will see our class working at the Castleton mall on Thursday evenings, but during the week the owners train and practice with their dogs all over town. Please keep in mind when you see us out and about working (either as a group or individually) that these are Service Dogs in training. When you see their vests you will know who we are!

This means; please try not to disturb them and please DO NOT PET! They are working hard to learn how to be model canine workers in a busy environment. Their ultimate goals are in being able to help their owners in whatever Service Dog tasks they are needed for. They do need to learn to concentrate and not go seeking attention from others. This is hard to teach our dogs when we have others coming up and petting without thinking.

We all know how hard it can be for true dog lovers to pass them by, if you ask ahead and not just reach out to pet, many times we will give the dogs permission to be petted. Then it is ok, but please try not to just reach out to them first. Give us a chance to give the dogs the release for it first. We thank you for your co-operation in this!

Seperation Anxiety

As a trainer, one of the most common issues I am asked by owners is how to deal with Seperation Anxiety. I hear of dogs doing everything from whining and barking the entire time the owner is gone, to eating electronics, baseboards and walls.
The first thing you need to keep in mind in dealing with this is that it is NOT your pets fault! It is all part of a panic response and they just can't help their reactions. For that reason alone, punishment will simply never work.

Seperation Anxiety can be caused by several things but the most common are: when a dog is used to constant human companionship are suddenly left alone, when a change in the routine or family structure occurs, or a traumatic event. Identifying the root cause for your pets Anxiety will help to determine the best course of action in helping them learn being alone is Ok.
Short term solutions would be placing your pet with a neighbor or family member, or if your pet likes to play with other dogs, enroll them in a Doggie Daycamp program. Another temporary measure is putting them on an anti-anxiety medication. Talk to your Veterinarian about this!
Working your pet through their anxieties in being left alone is not a short quick fix. It does take time but if you are willing to invest in that time and effort you will both be a lot happier and more relaxed!

If your pets anxiety is on the more mild side you can try leaving a t-shirt or small towel with the pet, that has the owners scent on it. Sometimes this is enough for your pet to be happy with until you return. Leaving a radio on for background noise can work in some of the more milder cases as well. I have even recommended to clients that if you have a dog that does pay at least some attention to the TV, video tape yourself in your normal home routine for a good 8 hour play time. Then when you leave put this to play on the TV your pet will be near. Sometimes the sound of our voices, being able to see our images on the screen can be a calming influence on our pets, even in our absense!

You can also work on their anxieties by utilizing the sit-stay and down-stay, with positive reinforcement. This will slowly reinforce to your pet that he or she can remain calm in one place while you are out of sight. You will want to use this command, then briefly move out of your dogs line of sight, gradually increasing the amount of time you remain out of sight, and the distance between you and your pet. On your return use positive reinforcement by praising him quietly or giving him a small treat. You can practice on this one each time you leave to go to a different room.
One of the most important things is to keep your arrivals and departures low key. Don't make leaving or coming home a big deal. When you return, try to ignore your pet for 5 minutes. When that time has passed greet him quietly for a brief time, then go about your normal routine. Build on a key phrase for short absenses, like *be right back*. You can offer them a favorite chew toy before leaving. Then stay out only for a few seconds, building up to several minutes. Don't use this when you know you will be gone for an extended period of time.

You can also practice leaving to slowly build your pet up to a true departure. Do this by putting on your coat, getting your car keys and then just go sit down. Wait for a few minutes then take the coat off and go about your business. You do this without any real intention of ever leaving! Do this a few times a day and as your pet becomes more and more relaxed with it you can extend the amount of time you leave your coat on or hold your keys in your hand. From here you can actually work on going to the door, opening it and stepping through, closing the door behind you. In the beginning stay out only for a few seconds before returning inside with your pet. When you do go back in, ignore them for the 5 minutes rule. Work on this, gradually increasing the length of time you stay outside the door until your pet is more comfortable with you being gone. Your goal should be to leave your pet for one hour without coming home to any issues.

This does all take time to work on, but the end result is a much happer, more *sane* pet when you are gone. This leads the owners to a peace of mind as well. It's not a quick fix but it is one that, once you've succeeded, will last a life time. As they say, any thing good takes time!

If you try these things and find it still doesn't help or if your pet has a really severe case of seperation anxiety, please contact your local Best Friend's and ask to speak to their trainer. Don't wait until they eat your house out from under you. They are not made of gingerbread!

Service Dog puppies

Thursday night (Feb 18, 2010) we started a new puppy class. This isn't just one of our usual Puppy Kindergarten classes. There are only two puppies in this class. Both of them were in a past Puppy K class and did well. They are back now in another class, working toward becoming a Service Dog for their owners. We have a LOT of work to do and a long road to travel still. I hope you will stick with us for this ride, to watch how they grow and develop into full fledged working Service Dogs. I will update on them from time to time, keeping up with their progress. All the ups and the downs. And there WILL be some downs to work through before they complete their training in a year or two!

First we have Jade. She is a 6 month old Giant Schnauzer. Jade is doing very well with her obedience work, her focus on her owner/trainer has improved a lot since the last class, showing mom and dads determination to work with her and have her do well. Jades mom has some mobility issues that she needs a large breed dog (like Jade) to assist her with in her daily life.

We also have Lexi. Lexi is a 5 month old Springer Spaniel. Lexi's mom is a retired Veteran from our Armed Services and has specific needs she wants and needs Lexi to help her with.

Lexi has slipped back a little in her training, but she's still a youngster and some times this happens. Mom is ready to step up and do some good hard work with Lexi to get her to where she needs to be. Lexi's biggest issue right now is her focus. She is still pretty easily distracted but with some good honest work over the next several months, this is an issue we will conquer together!

Stay tuned for progress on our Service Puppies!

Dog Scout Testing day!

We held our monthly Dog Scout meeting on Saturday Feb 13, 2010. After the business portion of our meeting concluded, we started testing several dogs for different badges. The first badge we worked on was for Basic Manners.

To earn their Basic Manners badge the Scouts need to pass certain tests. Heeling with us as they follow (and TOUCH) our hand is one. In this they need to walk several steps at our side and make a full turn, following the direction of our hand and touching when told to. They also need to be able to *go to bed* when told. Which means they have their own blanket, rug etc and when the owner gives them the command to go to bed (from at least 10 feet away) they must go right to their blanket and lay down on it. We are only allowed to give them one cue to do this! It's NOT as easy as it sounds either! Here Bailey is doing his best to impress Gayle!

The dogs also have to walk up to a *stranger* when given permission to go *say hi* and then they are to sit and wait quietly while being petted.  Sophie is doing her best to pass this one!

The dogs aren't the only ones who have top pass a test. Each owner must demonstrate that we know and understand the use of *Operant Conditioning* with our dogs (using a *reward marker* in their training). An oral test is then given to each of the owenrs, and we too must pass our portion of the exam for the dog to quallify for their badge! Dog Scouts is a team effort!

One of the more difficult tests for the dogs to pass is waiting inside a door when the owner walks out. By command they are to sit and wait in place until the owner calls them through the open door with them and they the dog is to get back into a controlled position. Sara and Saba are showing their expertise in this step.

They also need to stand and wait while someone else runs a hand down over their back etc. The dog needs to hold their stand position. A down command using one command is also a must, as well as from the down position the dog needs to be able to move when given the command so that they get up out of our way as we walk in a direct line to where they are laying down. We also have to show our dogs will get down off of a person or an object when told too.

We are proud to announce the Scouts who passed their Basic Manners Saturday!

Please congratulate Sophie Dudley, Bailey Burger, Lugnut Day, and  Saba Barefoot.

We also tested for our First Aid Badges Saturday. A big Thank You WOOF to Gayle Sprinkle who taught the First Aid class to the rest of us and tested owners/dogs for their badges. All owners had to demonstrate on their own dogs, how to take a pusle and count respirations and take the temperature of each of our dogs (giving Gayle their correct numbers). We also had to apply an emergency muzzle and a regular *hard* muzzle on our own dogs. The dogs then had to show they could walk several steps and sit with the muzzle on. We had to show capillary refill and the mucus condition of our own pets. Along with all of this we also had to decide on an *injury* to our pet and bandage accordingly, and then show two methods of emergency transport on our pets. Lugnut being the biggest of the bunch was the most difficult to move but Gayle and I persevered and moved him, albeit not very far! Here Sophie is practicing being the *injured* pet.

Following are the hard working Scouts who each passed their First Aid badge as well.

We have Sophie, Halle, Bailey, Lugnut, Noche, Saba and Jacque as our newest First Aid badge Scouts

Below are all of our Scouts who are now First Aid Scouts.

Charlie, Halle, Bailey, Sophie, Lugnut, Noche, Saba, Oslo, Ted and Jacques

Congratulations to all of our hard working Scouts!

How about winter sports for you and your dog?

It's easy to get into a couch potato way of life during the winter months.


Heck, even your dog would rather lie down in front of the fireplace or cuddle up to the wood stove than go outside when the temperatures start falling below zero!

Funny thing is... our furry companions are happy to follow our lead, no matter where we're headed!

So, why not bundle up and get outside into the fresh air? You might actually enjoy this type of exercise! Your dog will love it too.

A Cure For Cabin Fever

Winter brings all sorts of opportunities for outdoor activities. There are a couple of good fun winter activities you can share with your dogs too.

Some of the most beautiful scenery is waiting for you to explore and enjoy accompanied by bright blue skies and clean crisp snow.

Living in the Midwest, we know snow. We also know long winters. Which means if you want to go crazy real quick, try staying in the house all winter long wishing the snow would just go away.

This is often referred to as "cabin fever" -- that period of winter when you have nothing to do, and the walls of your house seem to be closing in on you.

Recreational dog sledding doesn't require a kennel of 50 dogs, as many professional teams keep. With as few as 3 dogs, an adult can hit the trail and comfortably travel. Even one dog is sufficient to pull young children on lightweight sleds for afternoon outings to enjoy the day outdoors.

No dog sledding events in your neck of the woods?...

You can still get into the spirit of dog sledding by taking your dog for a walk in the winter snow to the nearest park or sledding hill near you. Sometimes, watching others have fun in the snow is almost as much fun (if not more) than doing it yourself. And, as long as you walk to your destination, then you and your dog will be getting in some valuable exercise.

Another fun activity is Skijoring, an activity where all that is required is you, your dog and a pair of skis. Even small dogs will enjoy this outdoor activity.

Cross country skiing is a popular activity all throughout the snowbelt. Bring your dog along to enjoy the experience, and you'll find he's just as excited to help pull you along the trail. That's what Skijoring is all about!

With many organized skijoring events held throughout the winter months, you can choose to participate or simply be a spectator. Either way, the fresh air will do you good and help keep the winter blues at bay.

In the end, it's all about getting outdoors and getting some exercise -- with your dog. Once you get the blood moving, you'll feel better and the exercise will help to keep your body fit and and full of energy.

Skijoring takes a little training for the human and the dog, but there's no need for a specific breed. Skijorers recommend a dog weighing more than 40 pounds that can pull and get along with others.

If your dog likes to take you for a walk, that's probably a good skijoring dog.

You'll see people whose dogs are pretty well trained but can't very ski well. You'll see people that can ski and the dogs can pull. And then the pros you'll see they can ski and the dogs can pull.

In the sport of skijoring, it's hard to tell who likes to skijor more -- man or his best friend.

Look at it this way. You take your dog for a walk, you take your dog hunting. Seldom do you work so close together. Bundle up in layers, stay warm, and go out there and enjoy!

DISC DOGS

In our second installment of fun things to do with your dogs we are introducing information on the sport called DISC DOGS:

Disc dog is the more generic name for what is commonly called Frisbee dog. In disc dog competitions, dogs and their human disc throwers compete in events such as distance catching and somewhat choreographed freestyle catching. The sport celebrates the bond between handler and dog, by allowing them to work together. The term "disc" is preferred because "Frisbee" is a trademark (held by Wham-O) for a brand of flying disc.
Format
Teams of one person and one dog compete in the standard distance "toss and fetch" event. Points are awarded to the team for catches at varying distances. Competitions also often feature the dynamic freestyle event, which consists of short routines choregraphed to music with multiple discs in play. The less common long distance events have various formats, but generally the longest catch wins.

Divisions in frisbee dog events are usually based on the skill and experience of the handler. Men and women generally compete in the same divisions for all disciplines, although the long distance category is sometimes divided by gender.

Toss and fetch
Short distance events go by many names, including Toss and Fetch, MiniDistance, Throw and Catch, and Distance/Accuracy. The concept is generally the same. Contestants have 60 seconds to make as many throws as possible on a field marked with increasingly longer distances. The distances generally don't exceed 50 meters for the longest catches. Dogs are awarded points for catches based on the distance of the throw, with mid-air catches rating extra points (in most contests an extra half point when the dog is completely airborne for the catch). Only one disc is used for these events.

Freestyle
Freestyle is a subjectively judged event, similar to Freestyle events like skateboard and snowboard half-pipe, or Freestyle Footbag (Hacky Sack). The team consists of one person (handler) and his or her dog. Depending on the event, the length of a routine might be anywhere from one minute and 30 seconds all the way to three minutes. Teams are judged in categories that include Canine Athleticism, Degree of Difficulty, Showmanship, and so forth. Incredible flips, hyperfast multiple catches, and spectacular vaults make freestyle a popular event with spectators, and it is regarded as the highest level of competitive accomplishment.

Competitions
Today there are several organizations running disc dog tournaments. Most competitions take place in the summer on flat, grassy fields. Winter disc dog contests on soft snow are also popular in places.

Benefits
Dogs of all kinds can play Frisbee. Many World Champion disc dogs have been mixed breed and some were originally rescued from shelters. Dogs from animal shelters and rescue groups can excel at catching flying discs and may even find the activity helpful in overcoming past trauma. Problems that lead to a dog being abandoned, such as hyperactivity, aggression, and destructive or neurotic behavior, are often attributes that can be positively channeled into a sport like flying discs. Sometimes these dogs simply need a consistent job to keep them busy and give them purpose. Many Frisbee dogs also "cross-train" in other dog sports, including agility, flyball, sheepdog trials, and obedience.

Popularity
Part of the popularity of the sport is its accessibility. All that is necessary to enjoy it is a level playing area, a dog, and a flying disc. Also, a little imagination is an extra plus for Freestyle competition. It is estimated that over one million dogs play flying disc in the United States alone, though only a small percentage participate in organized competitions.

Disc dogs are also popular attractions at sporting events as half-time entertainment. Going clear back to Ashley and his 8th inning performance in 1974, Frisbee dogs have performed at countless football, basketball, baseball and soccer halftimes. They are many times found in amusement parks, county fairs and pet festivals of all kinds. There are a very small handful of trainers who even make a living doing these shows.

Disc dog clubs
Disc dog clubs organize and promote the sport on a local level, and work with national organizations to run events. They offer new-comers a way to learn more about the sport, and are a great place for the experienced competitors to give back. Disc dog clubs are usually active in local animal charities, helping to raise money and awareness for such groups. Disc dog clubs can be found all over the United States.. The first club was the Dallas Dog and Disc Club, founded in the mid-1980's by Ron Ellis.

Disc dog training
Not all dogs immediately understand the concept of the game. A dog may not instinctively know to turn and chase after a disc that is thrown over its head. To begin, the disc should be thrown straight to the dog at a short distance. Once a dog knows how to catch, it can learn the additional concept of running to catch the disc. The disc should be thrown at increasing heights, gradually throwing the disc higher, until it finally goes over the dog's head. At that point the dog instinctively follows the disc all the way around.

Information gathered from various sources including but not limited to Wikipedia

OCD in our dogs

Why they do the things they do ... over and over and over again.

Obsessive Compulsive Disorder in dogs, also called OCD, is a behavior that seems out of context, odd, and directed towards objects, be it the dog himself, or an inanimate object such as a food dish, or wheeled things like cars, bikes, or strollers.
OCD often manifests itself in dogs who are stressed, anxious, or bored, and can be a very maddening experience for the owner. These behaviors can often result in destruction of items, yards, angry neighbours, and seemingly uncontrollable aggression. Obsessive digging, continuous biting at their own feet, barking at nothing, attacking inanimate objects, all are symptoms of OCD.

When OCD is caused by stress, it is important to get help from your veterinarian. A stressed dog is also a potentially dangerous dog. There are medicated therapies available to help your dog deal with stress.

In boredom cases (digging, barking, tail chasing) it is time to step up your dog's activity level. A tired dog is a content dog, and not a compulsive pet. Get out and play more! Take long walks, look into Doggy Daycare, play fetch .. you get the idea. By expending your dog's energy on a safe, fun outlet, you not only ensure that your dog is happy, but you also increase your own bond with your pet, and reduce certain health risks, like accidental ingestion of poison (if your dog is a destruction machine in the house) and obesity.

Seperation Anxiety is often a cause of OCD. How many owners have come home to total destruction?

Compulsive Disorders can also be part of your dog's genetic make-up. Certain breeds are pre-disposed to these behaviors, such as Dobermans, who suck on their skin, German Shepherds, who who chase their own tails, and English Bull Terriers, who have the odd habit of sticking their heads underneath objects and freezing in place. Strange, yes?

From Krista Mifflin, former About.com Guide

Congratulations Puppy Graduates!

Thursday night we concluded another Puppy K class. I have to admit the puppy classes are some of my favorites. They always make us laugh at their antics, but it is also very rewarding to see puppies come in the first night out of control and go home at the end of graduation doing so much better. Most don't go home genius's but they do go home with a much better understanding of what their owners want from them and how to do it. On the last night we run through a *test* on all the different objects we train on.

Jade is a Giant Schnauzer who will be continuing in her training, working toward becoming a Service Dog to her owner. Jade graduated with top honors in this class. Here she is showing off her skills on the LEAVE IT command.

Lexi is another puppy who is working toward an eventual Service Dog completion. Right now her biggest issue is in trying to stay focused. Last night she showed everyone she CAN in fact do this, it just takes her a bit of effort right now.

Lexi was also doing very well on her stay command, even though she is still a young and exciteable Springer. It just goes to show what training can accomplish if you set your mind and efforts to it!

Katie, our little Corgi puppy did fabulous all through the training weeks. So of course on Graduation night she decided to become a puppy *teen* and show off for everyone. Katie still graduated, she just had to remind everyone in class how adorable she can be! As long as mom could hold her focus last night Katie did a great job on her heeling.

Kiley is taking out a new page in training with Wheaton Terriers. I've worked with many and they are all so excited about every single little thing in life, getting them to focus can be a whole new challenge of it's own. Kiley however did a terrific job in graduation class and has shown a great deal of improvement through out the class. Getting her to stay is still some what of a challenge unless you can keep her focused, but as you can see Kiley can certainly do this with the best of them, given the opportunity.

Kiley also did a great job on her DOWN command. Not an easy thing for a young Wheaton to do!

Upon completion of all testing, it was time to unveil the Graduates. Helping us to unroll the Red Carpet was our *resident* training helper, Lugnut.


Congratulations to all our Puppy K Graduates and their owners! You've all done a wonderful job. The job now is to not stop working with them and let them slide backwards! We'll be seeing many of you in our next class.

Katie the Corgi and mom

  Jade the Giant Schnauzer, and mom

Sid, most improved, and mom

Kiley the Wheaton, and mom

  Lexi, the Springer and mom

                   

Fun things to do with your dog

Over the course of the next few weeks I will be posting information here on different sports events and trials you can participate in with your dog. It's a great thing to find an activity you and your dog can do together to help keep you both fit, physically and mentally. It also helps you to build a better closer bond wth your dog and turns them into fun but obedient pets. In a relaxed and rewarding way.

If you have any questions about this sport/event, feel free to contact our trainer Kristi Rush at Best Friends Pet Care in Indianapolis. For our first one we will introduce RALLY Competition information, courtesy of the American Kennel Club:


Getting Started in Rally
Rally is a sport in which the dog and handler complete a course that has been designed by the rally judge. The judge tells the handler to begin, and the dog and handler proceed at their own pace through a course of designated stations (10 - 20, depending on the level). Each of these stations has a sign providing instructions regarding the next skill that is to be performed. Scoring is not as rigorous as traditional obedience.

The team of dog and handler moves continuously at a brisk, but normal, pace with the dog under control at the handler's left side. There should be a sense of teamwork between the dog and handler both during the numbered exercises and between the exercise signs; however, perfect "heel position" is not required. Any faults in traditional obedience that would be evaluated and scored as a one-point deduction or more should be scored the same in Rally, unless otherwise mentioned in the Rally Regulations. After the judge's "Forward" order, the team is on its own to complete the entire sequence of numbered signs correctly.
Unlimited communication from the handler to the dog is to be encouraged and not penalized. Unless otherwise specified in these Regulations, handlers are permitted to talk, praise, encourage, clap their hands, pat their legs, or use any verbal means of encouragement. Multiple commands and/or signals using one or both arms and hands are allowed; the handler's arms need not be maintained in any particular position at any time. The handler may not touch the dog or make physical corrections. At any time during the performance, loud or harsh commands or intimidating signals will be penalized.

Rally provides a link from the Canine Good Citizen® (CGC) program to obedience or agility competition, both for dogs and handlers. In addition, rally promotes fun and enjoyment for dogs at all levels of competition.

What is Rally?
AKC Rally is the new dog sport that is taking the nation by storm, a successful stepping stone from the AKC Canine Good Citizen® program to the world of obedience or agility. Rally offers both the dogs and handlers an experience that is fun and energizing. The canine team moves at their own pace, very similar to rally-style auto racing. Rally was designed with the traditional pet owner in mind, but it can still be very challenging for those who enjoy higher levels of competition.

A rally course includes 10 to 20 stations, depending on the level. Scoring is not as rigorous as traditional obedience. Communication between handler and dog is encouraged and perfect heel position is not required, but there should be a sense of teamwork between the dog and handler. The main objective of rally is to produce dogs that have been trained to behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner that will reflect positively on the sport of rally at all times and under all conditions.

Am I Eligible?

To be eligible to compete in AKC Rally trials, a dog must be:
Registered with the AKC or listed with the AKC Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privilege (PAL/ILP) program, or a Foundation Stock Service (FSS) recorded breed that meets the eligibility requirements for competition.

6 months of age or older.

The Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privilege (PAL/ILP)
Dogs of any breed recognized by the AKC that do not have registration papers or known parents may qualify for a Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privilege (PAL/ILP). PAL/ILP dogs may participate in certain AKC events, such as obedience, agility, tracking, rally and many performance events. Photos are required to prove the dog is a registerable breed. The dog must be spayed or neutered.

Rally Signs
The signs may be any color and they include descriptions as well as directional arrows of exercises. Signs are numbered to make it easy to find the next station when navigating the course.

All signs are placed to the handler's right side. The signs are large enough to be easily recognized when going through a course. The exercises designated on the signs will be performed in close proximity to the sign itself, either in front, back of, or beside the sign.

Role of the judge

The judge must arrive one hour before judging in order to set up the course for the class. Judges are open to questions that the handlers may have regarding the course during the walk-through period.They must post a copy of the course at ringside so that the exhibitors know what to expect and where to go once they are in the ring. The judge must evaluate the performance of each exercise and the sense of teamwork between the dog and handler between the stations as stated in the AKC Rally Regulations.

The orders "Are you ready?" and "Forward" are given to each handler who enters the ring.

Levels of Competition

The three levels of competition in AKC Rally:
Novice - this is the first level for those just getting started in competition.
All exercises are performed with the dog on leash.
There is a requirement of 10-15 stations to complete with no more than five stationary exercises.
The exercises performed vary from turning 360 degrees to changing paces during the course.
Exhibitors at this level may clap their hands and pat their legs through the course.

Advanced - this is the second level, which includes more difficult exercises throughout the course.
All exercises are performed off-leash.
There is a requirement of 12-17 stations with no more than seven stationary exercises.
Exercises include a jump as well as calling your dog to the front of you instead of to a heel position.

Excellent - this third and highest level of AKC Rally is the most challenging.
Exercises are performed off-leash except for the honor exercise.
There is a requirement of 15-20 stations, with no more than 7 stationary exercises.
Handlers are only allowed to encourage their dogs verbally. Physical encouragement is not allowed at this level.
The Excellent-level exercises include backing up three steps, while the dog stays in the heel position and a moving stand, while the handler walks around the dog.

Qualifying Performance
A qualifying performance indicates that the dog has performed the required exercises according to the AKC Rally Regulations. Each performance is timed, but times are only counted if two dogs earn the same score.

Qualifying Score
All dogs and handlers begin with a perfect 100. A dog and handler team is awarded a qualifying score if it retains at least 70 points after the course has been completed. Once the team has completed the course, their score will be posted ringside.

Awards:
The colors for placement rosettes or ribbons are the same in all levels of classes.
First Place - Blue
Second Place - Red
Third Place - Yellow
Fourth Place - White

How do I get started in Rally?
Many AKC clubs conduct a variety of classes, instructed by experienced trainers who have earned titles and awards in obedience competitions with their own dogs. These people are up-to-date on the latest training techniques. They have experience training different breeds of dogs, mixed breeds and purebreds, and prospective students are usually welcome to observe a class before signing up for a training course.

When you attend a class with your dog, instructors will show you how to train your dog and will expect you to practice at home. The younger the dog, the shorter the practice sessions should be. For the best results, both you and your dog should enjoy frequent short sessions, combined with some play and rewards.

Tips for the First-time Exhibitor
Register your dog with the AKC.
Make sure that your dog is current on all inoculations and health check-ups.
Visit the AKC website to find a training club.
Attend training classes with your dog.
Become familiar with the AKC Rally Regulations.
Attend a rally trial and become familiar with ring procedures.
Don't be afraid to ask questions from experienced exhibitors.

Tips for the First-time Spectator
However tempting, do not pet a dog without first asking for and receiving permission.
Many rally trials have vendors and an information booth with helpful information for the general public.
Arrive early and bring a chair! Rally often starts very early in the morning.
If you have not yet purchased your dog, speak to exhibitors about their breeds to gain knowledge of the best dog for your family. Also, visit the "Future Dog Owners" section of the AKC website.
If you bring a baby stroller to a rally trial, be careful not run over a dog's tail. Be sure your child respects the dogs and does not grab or poke at them. Some crowded trials forbid strollers.

Rally Titles
The dogs must earn three qualifying scores under two different judges in order to receive a rally title. The titles that can be earned are:
Rally Novice: RN
Rally Advanced: RA
Rally Excellent: RE
Rally Advanced Excellent: RAE
The requirement for the RAE title is that the dog must qualify ten times in both the Advanced B class and the Excellent B class at the same trial.

Leaving your pets out for too long in the cold or heat? Uncool!

Via the American Human Society:
Humane Society does not recommend chaining or tying dogs up as a means of confinement. Chaining and tying can increase frustrated and aggressive behavior. As well, chained or tied dogs can become tangled in their chain or rope and become injured. A chained dog is unprotected and can be attacked by other animals or people.

If such an establishment, which frequently euthanizes animals, considers being tied outside an unacceptable means of caretaking, then I suspect there is no argument for it. To be clearer: If even the butcher isn't happy with how the animal got there, there must be something seriously wrong with the process.
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If you leave it tied outside for long periods of time (esp. with little space, food, shelter and water or in unpleasant weather) it is definitely animal abuse. Leaving a dog tied up for long periods of time causes stress and boredom in the animals. It also leaves them more exposed to fleas, insect bites, abuse from other people, and unpleasant weather conditions. Also, leashes can cause blisters and sores around the dog's neck to loosen it up a bit or even better yet, get a fence.

However, if you must leave your dog our, provide it with a lot of space (depending on your dog's energy levels and size), food, fresh water, and a good shelter. Try to get a fence and skip the leash too if possible. And even if you do all of that, make sure to bring your dog in regularly to clean him, provide him with affection and exercise your dog on a daily basis (to reduce stress and boredom and bond better with your dog).

My suggestion is taking your dog to an "animal daycare" if you still plan on leaving it tied up outside for long periods of time because of whatever reason.


Below is a list of resources for making a complaint if you do see an animal left outside unprotected to the weather. It IS against the law to chain your pets up outsidie or leave them outside for long periods exposed to any type of inclement weather, whether is is extreme cold, rain or heat.

Mayors Action Center:   
317-327-4622
7:30-5:30 M-F
They will forward to Animal Care and Control
________________________________________________________________________________
OR
________________________________________________________________________________
F.I.D.O
Friends of Indianapolis Dogs Outside
317-592-9616

Food and toy aggression?

Growling, Snarling, Snapping Or Biting To Protect Food, Water Or Toys


Does your dog growl or snarl when someone comes too close to his toys or food? It is common for dogs to claim territory, food, toys, other dogs, and even people. This behavior can be generalized further, with dogs guarding anything. Resource guarding can be a dangerous behavior. While unsettling on its own, it is easy to envision a perfect storm that turns protection or guarding into full-blown aggression.

Resource Guarding is Caused By:

Instinct - In a dog pack, the leader, alpha, eats first and denies the others' attempts to encroach on his domain.

Lack of socialization - Dogs that have not been properly trained to give up their favorite items or yield their food bowl will demonstrate this unwanted behavior.

Fear - A dog that is afraid of people (adults and/or children) or animals will defend its resources, and itself, against the threat.

Dominance issues - In dominant cases, the dog sees himself at the top and is willing to exert that influence.

Actually trained that way - owners playing with the dog (tug of war), encouraging him to growl in protection over his toys.

Tips to Stop Resource Guarding

Resolving the issue begins with relationship exercises and redefining your dog's understanding of the resources themselves. It is normal for a dog to guard its resources. It is normal for people too, but we use locks and the police to safeguard our territory and a dog uses its teeth. In this case, we want to replace his current understanding with a new, more tolerant view of things.

Begin by picking up his toys and other items that he guards. Do this when he is away.

Allow him to have one toy at a time, and be the one that hands it to him.

When taking a toy from him, trade him for a different toy. It's best to give him one of the least valued toys first, and then trade him a better toy.

When he is eating, make it a habit to add pieces of food in there as he goes. Let him learn that a human hand by the food dish means chicken, hot dog, or beef in the bowl.

Note: If there is a chance your dog may snap or bite, do not put your hands near him. Instead, use a broom, or other long handled object.

The way to fix the behavior is to make giving up items a fun thing. By rewarding your dog with play and treats for trading his toys, by dropping good food items in his bowl while he eats, and other such exercises, you can condition him to see the presence of a human hand near his toys and food as a good thing that indicates better stuff coming his way. The stronger his belief in this, the lower the likelihood that he will bite someone for approaching him at the wrong time.

Caution: There is a difference between changing a dog's mindset and simply getting a dog to be quiet. The growl and snarl can be punished out of the dog, but if the underlying aggression remains, then he will simply skip the warning steps and go right to the bite. This is commonly what occurs when a dog is merely punished for incorrect behaviors instead of trained to see the world differently. It is much better to prepare your dog to enjoy and want interference.