Second Service Dog Class

Several weeks ago we welcomed two new dogs into our *active* Service Dog training program. Jade is a Giant Schnauzer and Lexi is a Springer Spaniel. Jade is being trained as a Physical Assistant dog and Lexi is working to become an Emotional Assistant. Both are doing well for their prospective *jobs*.

Jade learns fast and is very eager to do her job. She is assisting her owner in a variety of ways already. She has learned to help her off with her clothes, open wheelchair access doors, retrieve a variety of items as instructed pick up things that her owner drops and hand them back to her, and to *go get______* when her owner needs help. She will go to that person, paw them and then lead them back to where ever her owner is at. She is in the process of learning to drop items into a basket or throw things into the trash.

Lexi has a little more trouble staying focused to her task, but she too is learning to open wheelchair access doors, *give hugs*, pick up items that have been dropped, and generally stay at her owners side, lending comfort and support when needed. She is working on bringing items back as directed (medicine bottles etc).

We have been working at various stores, Castleton Mall, and an ever changing array of eating establishments. Both Lexi and Lade are doing extremely well in the LEAVE IT department. Two weeks ago we were working at the food court in Castleton Mall where I pushed the envelope on their LEAVE IT training. To start with the owners were to go get in line (a line of their choosing), order food and or drink and pay for it. Their dogs needed to remain in a polite sit position at the owners side. When they received their orders they were to go sit down with their dogs under their tables out of the way. The dogs were not to bother any other patrons, nor disturb their owners in any way. The dogs all did really well with this so I *upped* the stakes again.

I bought a plain hot dog and had them cut it into pieces. I put them in the card board *boat* and placed it on the floor between the two tables/dogs. Neither bothered it or broke their position under the tables. Seeing this we upped it a little bit more. I took the hot dog pieces and scattered them in a line on the floor. I then had each owner/dog team practice the conscious decision leave it while walking their dogs past the food. Since they did well with this exercise we tested them further. I had the owner put their dog on a sit stay on one end of the line of food and then they moved down to the other end. We stationed helpers along the line just in case one of the dogs made a break for the food. After leaving them to sit/stay for 30 seconds or so, the owners then called their dogs to COME. Jade went first in this exercise and never bothered with the food or tried to run beyond her owner. EXCELLANT JOB JADE!

Next was Lexi's turn, she too did well though she made one try for the food with the second hot dog piece she went past. Our helper grabbed the food back from her as her owner corrected her. We then tried again, each dog/team running through this exercise several times. Each time after Lexi's first mistake was a good run for her as well. GOOD JOB LEXI!

All in all both of these teams are doing very well and have progressed nicely in their training. We have three more classes to go through before we test off for their first level. In tonight's class we will be at the local hospital working our dogs in the elevators, hallways and the lobby. I have high hopes for them both! After this class completes we will be welcoming one or two more into our program. Keep looking for us!

And please remember, the dogs are in training and are not to be petted while working! We all thank you for your co operation.

Kristi
Service Dog Trainer

Seperation Anxiety

As a trainer, one of the most common issues I am asked by owners is how to deal with Seperation Anxiety. I hear of dogs doing everything from whining and barking the entire time the owner is gone, to eating electronics, baseboards and walls.
The first thing you need to keep in mind in dealing with this is that it is NOT your pets fault! It is all part of a panic response and they just can't help their reactions. For that reason alone, punishment will simply never work.

Seperation Anxiety can be caused by several things but the most common are: when a dog is used to constant human companionship are suddenly left alone, when a change in the routine or family structure occurs, or a traumatic event. Identifying the root cause for your pets Anxiety will help to determine the best course of action in helping them learn being alone is Ok.
Short term solutions would be placing your pet with a neighbor or family member, or if your pet likes to play with other dogs, enroll them in a Doggie Daycamp program. Another temporary measure is putting them on an anti-anxiety medication. Talk to your Veterinarian about this!
Working your pet through their anxieties in being left alone is not a short quick fix. It does take time but if you are willing to invest in that time and effort you will both be a lot happier and more relaxed!

If your pets anxiety is on the more mild side you can try leaving a t-shirt or small towel with the pet, that has the owners scent on it. Sometimes this is enough for your pet to be happy with until you return. Leaving a radio on for background noise can work in some of the more milder cases as well. I have even recommended to clients that if you have a dog that does pay at least some attention to the TV, video tape yourself in your normal home routine for a good 8 hour play time. Then when you leave put this to play on the TV your pet will be near. Sometimes the sound of our voices, being able to see our images on the screen can be a calming influence on our pets, even in our absense!

You can also work on their anxieties by utilizing the sit-stay and down-stay, with positive reinforcement. This will slowly reinforce to your pet that he or she can remain calm in one place while you are out of sight. You will want to use this command, then briefly move out of your dogs line of sight, gradually increasing the amount of time you remain out of sight, and the distance between you and your pet. On your return use positive reinforcement by praising him quietly or giving him a small treat. You can practice on this one each time you leave to go to a different room.
One of the most important things is to keep your arrivals and departures low key. Don't make leaving or coming home a big deal. When you return, try to ignore your pet for 5 minutes. When that time has passed greet him quietly for a brief time, then go about your normal routine. Build on a key phrase for short absenses, like *be right back*. You can offer them a favorite chew toy before leaving. Then stay out only for a few seconds, building up to several minutes. Don't use this when you know you will be gone for an extended period of time.

You can also practice leaving to slowly build your pet up to a true departure. Do this by putting on your coat, getting your car keys and then just go sit down. Wait for a few minutes then take the coat off and go about your business. You do this without any real intention of ever leaving! Do this a few times a day and as your pet becomes more and more relaxed with it you can extend the amount of time you leave your coat on or hold your keys in your hand. From here you can actually work on going to the door, opening it and stepping through, closing the door behind you. In the beginning stay out only for a few seconds before returning inside with your pet. When you do go back in, ignore them for the 5 minutes rule. Work on this, gradually increasing the length of time you stay outside the door until your pet is more comfortable with you being gone. Your goal should be to leave your pet for one hour without coming home to any issues.

This does all take time to work on, but the end result is a much happer, more *sane* pet when you are gone. This leads the owners to a peace of mind as well. It's not a quick fix but it is one that, once you've succeeded, will last a life time. As they say, any thing good takes time!

If you try these things and find it still doesn't help or if your pet has a really severe case of seperation anxiety, please contact your local Best Friend's and ask to speak to their trainer. Don't wait until they eat your house out from under you. They are not made of gingerbread!

Service Dog puppies

Thursday night (Feb 18, 2010) we started a new puppy class. This isn't just one of our usual Puppy Kindergarten classes. There are only two puppies in this class. Both of them were in a past Puppy K class and did well. They are back now in another class, working toward becoming a Service Dog for their owners. We have a LOT of work to do and a long road to travel still. I hope you will stick with us for this ride, to watch how they grow and develop into full fledged working Service Dogs. I will update on them from time to time, keeping up with their progress. All the ups and the downs. And there WILL be some downs to work through before they complete their training in a year or two!

First we have Jade. She is a 6 month old Giant Schnauzer. Jade is doing very well with her obedience work, her focus on her owner/trainer has improved a lot since the last class, showing mom and dads determination to work with her and have her do well. Jades mom has some mobility issues that she needs a large breed dog (like Jade) to assist her with in her daily life.

We also have Lexi. Lexi is a 5 month old Springer Spaniel. Lexi's mom is a retired Veteran from our Armed Services and has specific needs she wants and needs Lexi to help her with.

Lexi has slipped back a little in her training, but she's still a youngster and some times this happens. Mom is ready to step up and do some good hard work with Lexi to get her to where she needs to be. Lexi's biggest issue right now is her focus. She is still pretty easily distracted but with some good honest work over the next several months, this is an issue we will conquer together!

Stay tuned for progress on our Service Puppies!

DISC DOGS

In our second installment of fun things to do with your dogs we are introducing information on the sport called DISC DOGS:

Disc dog is the more generic name for what is commonly called Frisbee dog. In disc dog competitions, dogs and their human disc throwers compete in events such as distance catching and somewhat choreographed freestyle catching. The sport celebrates the bond between handler and dog, by allowing them to work together. The term "disc" is preferred because "Frisbee" is a trademark (held by Wham-O) for a brand of flying disc.
Format
Teams of one person and one dog compete in the standard distance "toss and fetch" event. Points are awarded to the team for catches at varying distances. Competitions also often feature the dynamic freestyle event, which consists of short routines choregraphed to music with multiple discs in play. The less common long distance events have various formats, but generally the longest catch wins.

Divisions in frisbee dog events are usually based on the skill and experience of the handler. Men and women generally compete in the same divisions for all disciplines, although the long distance category is sometimes divided by gender.

Toss and fetch
Short distance events go by many names, including Toss and Fetch, MiniDistance, Throw and Catch, and Distance/Accuracy. The concept is generally the same. Contestants have 60 seconds to make as many throws as possible on a field marked with increasingly longer distances. The distances generally don't exceed 50 meters for the longest catches. Dogs are awarded points for catches based on the distance of the throw, with mid-air catches rating extra points (in most contests an extra half point when the dog is completely airborne for the catch). Only one disc is used for these events.

Freestyle
Freestyle is a subjectively judged event, similar to Freestyle events like skateboard and snowboard half-pipe, or Freestyle Footbag (Hacky Sack). The team consists of one person (handler) and his or her dog. Depending on the event, the length of a routine might be anywhere from one minute and 30 seconds all the way to three minutes. Teams are judged in categories that include Canine Athleticism, Degree of Difficulty, Showmanship, and so forth. Incredible flips, hyperfast multiple catches, and spectacular vaults make freestyle a popular event with spectators, and it is regarded as the highest level of competitive accomplishment.

Competitions
Today there are several organizations running disc dog tournaments. Most competitions take place in the summer on flat, grassy fields. Winter disc dog contests on soft snow are also popular in places.

Benefits
Dogs of all kinds can play Frisbee. Many World Champion disc dogs have been mixed breed and some were originally rescued from shelters. Dogs from animal shelters and rescue groups can excel at catching flying discs and may even find the activity helpful in overcoming past trauma. Problems that lead to a dog being abandoned, such as hyperactivity, aggression, and destructive or neurotic behavior, are often attributes that can be positively channeled into a sport like flying discs. Sometimes these dogs simply need a consistent job to keep them busy and give them purpose. Many Frisbee dogs also "cross-train" in other dog sports, including agility, flyball, sheepdog trials, and obedience.

Popularity
Part of the popularity of the sport is its accessibility. All that is necessary to enjoy it is a level playing area, a dog, and a flying disc. Also, a little imagination is an extra plus for Freestyle competition. It is estimated that over one million dogs play flying disc in the United States alone, though only a small percentage participate in organized competitions.

Disc dogs are also popular attractions at sporting events as half-time entertainment. Going clear back to Ashley and his 8th inning performance in 1974, Frisbee dogs have performed at countless football, basketball, baseball and soccer halftimes. They are many times found in amusement parks, county fairs and pet festivals of all kinds. There are a very small handful of trainers who even make a living doing these shows.

Disc dog clubs
Disc dog clubs organize and promote the sport on a local level, and work with national organizations to run events. They offer new-comers a way to learn more about the sport, and are a great place for the experienced competitors to give back. Disc dog clubs are usually active in local animal charities, helping to raise money and awareness for such groups. Disc dog clubs can be found all over the United States.. The first club was the Dallas Dog and Disc Club, founded in the mid-1980's by Ron Ellis.

Disc dog training
Not all dogs immediately understand the concept of the game. A dog may not instinctively know to turn and chase after a disc that is thrown over its head. To begin, the disc should be thrown straight to the dog at a short distance. Once a dog knows how to catch, it can learn the additional concept of running to catch the disc. The disc should be thrown at increasing heights, gradually throwing the disc higher, until it finally goes over the dog's head. At that point the dog instinctively follows the disc all the way around.

Information gathered from various sources including but not limited to Wikipedia

OCD in our dogs

Why they do the things they do ... over and over and over again.

Obsessive Compulsive Disorder in dogs, also called OCD, is a behavior that seems out of context, odd, and directed towards objects, be it the dog himself, or an inanimate object such as a food dish, or wheeled things like cars, bikes, or strollers.
OCD often manifests itself in dogs who are stressed, anxious, or bored, and can be a very maddening experience for the owner. These behaviors can often result in destruction of items, yards, angry neighbours, and seemingly uncontrollable aggression. Obsessive digging, continuous biting at their own feet, barking at nothing, attacking inanimate objects, all are symptoms of OCD.

When OCD is caused by stress, it is important to get help from your veterinarian. A stressed dog is also a potentially dangerous dog. There are medicated therapies available to help your dog deal with stress.

In boredom cases (digging, barking, tail chasing) it is time to step up your dog's activity level. A tired dog is a content dog, and not a compulsive pet. Get out and play more! Take long walks, look into Doggy Daycare, play fetch .. you get the idea. By expending your dog's energy on a safe, fun outlet, you not only ensure that your dog is happy, but you also increase your own bond with your pet, and reduce certain health risks, like accidental ingestion of poison (if your dog is a destruction machine in the house) and obesity.

Seperation Anxiety is often a cause of OCD. How many owners have come home to total destruction?

Compulsive Disorders can also be part of your dog's genetic make-up. Certain breeds are pre-disposed to these behaviors, such as Dobermans, who suck on their skin, German Shepherds, who who chase their own tails, and English Bull Terriers, who have the odd habit of sticking their heads underneath objects and freezing in place. Strange, yes?

From Krista Mifflin, former About.com Guide

Fun things to do with your dog

Over the course of the next few weeks I will be posting information here on different sports events and trials you can participate in with your dog. It's a great thing to find an activity you and your dog can do together to help keep you both fit, physically and mentally. It also helps you to build a better closer bond wth your dog and turns them into fun but obedient pets. In a relaxed and rewarding way.

If you have any questions about this sport/event, feel free to contact our trainer Kristi Rush at Best Friends Pet Care in Indianapolis. For our first one we will introduce RALLY Competition information, courtesy of the American Kennel Club:


Getting Started in Rally
Rally is a sport in which the dog and handler complete a course that has been designed by the rally judge. The judge tells the handler to begin, and the dog and handler proceed at their own pace through a course of designated stations (10 - 20, depending on the level). Each of these stations has a sign providing instructions regarding the next skill that is to be performed. Scoring is not as rigorous as traditional obedience.

The team of dog and handler moves continuously at a brisk, but normal, pace with the dog under control at the handler's left side. There should be a sense of teamwork between the dog and handler both during the numbered exercises and between the exercise signs; however, perfect "heel position" is not required. Any faults in traditional obedience that would be evaluated and scored as a one-point deduction or more should be scored the same in Rally, unless otherwise mentioned in the Rally Regulations. After the judge's "Forward" order, the team is on its own to complete the entire sequence of numbered signs correctly.
Unlimited communication from the handler to the dog is to be encouraged and not penalized. Unless otherwise specified in these Regulations, handlers are permitted to talk, praise, encourage, clap their hands, pat their legs, or use any verbal means of encouragement. Multiple commands and/or signals using one or both arms and hands are allowed; the handler's arms need not be maintained in any particular position at any time. The handler may not touch the dog or make physical corrections. At any time during the performance, loud or harsh commands or intimidating signals will be penalized.

Rally provides a link from the Canine Good Citizen® (CGC) program to obedience or agility competition, both for dogs and handlers. In addition, rally promotes fun and enjoyment for dogs at all levels of competition.

What is Rally?
AKC Rally is the new dog sport that is taking the nation by storm, a successful stepping stone from the AKC Canine Good Citizen® program to the world of obedience or agility. Rally offers both the dogs and handlers an experience that is fun and energizing. The canine team moves at their own pace, very similar to rally-style auto racing. Rally was designed with the traditional pet owner in mind, but it can still be very challenging for those who enjoy higher levels of competition.

A rally course includes 10 to 20 stations, depending on the level. Scoring is not as rigorous as traditional obedience. Communication between handler and dog is encouraged and perfect heel position is not required, but there should be a sense of teamwork between the dog and handler. The main objective of rally is to produce dogs that have been trained to behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner that will reflect positively on the sport of rally at all times and under all conditions.

Am I Eligible?

To be eligible to compete in AKC Rally trials, a dog must be:
Registered with the AKC or listed with the AKC Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privilege (PAL/ILP) program, or a Foundation Stock Service (FSS) recorded breed that meets the eligibility requirements for competition.

6 months of age or older.

The Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privilege (PAL/ILP)
Dogs of any breed recognized by the AKC that do not have registration papers or known parents may qualify for a Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privilege (PAL/ILP). PAL/ILP dogs may participate in certain AKC events, such as obedience, agility, tracking, rally and many performance events. Photos are required to prove the dog is a registerable breed. The dog must be spayed or neutered.

Rally Signs
The signs may be any color and they include descriptions as well as directional arrows of exercises. Signs are numbered to make it easy to find the next station when navigating the course.

All signs are placed to the handler's right side. The signs are large enough to be easily recognized when going through a course. The exercises designated on the signs will be performed in close proximity to the sign itself, either in front, back of, or beside the sign.

Role of the judge

The judge must arrive one hour before judging in order to set up the course for the class. Judges are open to questions that the handlers may have regarding the course during the walk-through period.They must post a copy of the course at ringside so that the exhibitors know what to expect and where to go once they are in the ring. The judge must evaluate the performance of each exercise and the sense of teamwork between the dog and handler between the stations as stated in the AKC Rally Regulations.

The orders "Are you ready?" and "Forward" are given to each handler who enters the ring.

Levels of Competition

The three levels of competition in AKC Rally:
Novice - this is the first level for those just getting started in competition.
All exercises are performed with the dog on leash.
There is a requirement of 10-15 stations to complete with no more than five stationary exercises.
The exercises performed vary from turning 360 degrees to changing paces during the course.
Exhibitors at this level may clap their hands and pat their legs through the course.

Advanced - this is the second level, which includes more difficult exercises throughout the course.
All exercises are performed off-leash.
There is a requirement of 12-17 stations with no more than seven stationary exercises.
Exercises include a jump as well as calling your dog to the front of you instead of to a heel position.

Excellent - this third and highest level of AKC Rally is the most challenging.
Exercises are performed off-leash except for the honor exercise.
There is a requirement of 15-20 stations, with no more than 7 stationary exercises.
Handlers are only allowed to encourage their dogs verbally. Physical encouragement is not allowed at this level.
The Excellent-level exercises include backing up three steps, while the dog stays in the heel position and a moving stand, while the handler walks around the dog.

Qualifying Performance
A qualifying performance indicates that the dog has performed the required exercises according to the AKC Rally Regulations. Each performance is timed, but times are only counted if two dogs earn the same score.

Qualifying Score
All dogs and handlers begin with a perfect 100. A dog and handler team is awarded a qualifying score if it retains at least 70 points after the course has been completed. Once the team has completed the course, their score will be posted ringside.

Awards:
The colors for placement rosettes or ribbons are the same in all levels of classes.
First Place - Blue
Second Place - Red
Third Place - Yellow
Fourth Place - White

How do I get started in Rally?
Many AKC clubs conduct a variety of classes, instructed by experienced trainers who have earned titles and awards in obedience competitions with their own dogs. These people are up-to-date on the latest training techniques. They have experience training different breeds of dogs, mixed breeds and purebreds, and prospective students are usually welcome to observe a class before signing up for a training course.

When you attend a class with your dog, instructors will show you how to train your dog and will expect you to practice at home. The younger the dog, the shorter the practice sessions should be. For the best results, both you and your dog should enjoy frequent short sessions, combined with some play and rewards.

Tips for the First-time Exhibitor
Register your dog with the AKC.
Make sure that your dog is current on all inoculations and health check-ups.
Visit the AKC website to find a training club.
Attend training classes with your dog.
Become familiar with the AKC Rally Regulations.
Attend a rally trial and become familiar with ring procedures.
Don't be afraid to ask questions from experienced exhibitors.

Tips for the First-time Spectator
However tempting, do not pet a dog without first asking for and receiving permission.
Many rally trials have vendors and an information booth with helpful information for the general public.
Arrive early and bring a chair! Rally often starts very early in the morning.
If you have not yet purchased your dog, speak to exhibitors about their breeds to gain knowledge of the best dog for your family. Also, visit the "Future Dog Owners" section of the AKC website.
If you bring a baby stroller to a rally trial, be careful not run over a dog's tail. Be sure your child respects the dogs and does not grab or poke at them. Some crowded trials forbid strollers.

Rally Titles
The dogs must earn three qualifying scores under two different judges in order to receive a rally title. The titles that can be earned are:
Rally Novice: RN
Rally Advanced: RA
Rally Excellent: RE
Rally Advanced Excellent: RAE
The requirement for the RAE title is that the dog must qualify ten times in both the Advanced B class and the Excellent B class at the same trial.

Leaving your pets out for too long in the cold or heat? Uncool!

Via the American Human Society:
Humane Society does not recommend chaining or tying dogs up as a means of confinement. Chaining and tying can increase frustrated and aggressive behavior. As well, chained or tied dogs can become tangled in their chain or rope and become injured. A chained dog is unprotected and can be attacked by other animals or people.

If such an establishment, which frequently euthanizes animals, considers being tied outside an unacceptable means of caretaking, then I suspect there is no argument for it. To be clearer: If even the butcher isn't happy with how the animal got there, there must be something seriously wrong with the process.
---------------

If you leave it tied outside for long periods of time (esp. with little space, food, shelter and water or in unpleasant weather) it is definitely animal abuse. Leaving a dog tied up for long periods of time causes stress and boredom in the animals. It also leaves them more exposed to fleas, insect bites, abuse from other people, and unpleasant weather conditions. Also, leashes can cause blisters and sores around the dog's neck to loosen it up a bit or even better yet, get a fence.

However, if you must leave your dog our, provide it with a lot of space (depending on your dog's energy levels and size), food, fresh water, and a good shelter. Try to get a fence and skip the leash too if possible. And even if you do all of that, make sure to bring your dog in regularly to clean him, provide him with affection and exercise your dog on a daily basis (to reduce stress and boredom and bond better with your dog).

My suggestion is taking your dog to an "animal daycare" if you still plan on leaving it tied up outside for long periods of time because of whatever reason.


Below is a list of resources for making a complaint if you do see an animal left outside unprotected to the weather. It IS against the law to chain your pets up outsidie or leave them outside for long periods exposed to any type of inclement weather, whether is is extreme cold, rain or heat.

Mayors Action Center:   
317-327-4622
7:30-5:30 M-F
They will forward to Animal Care and Control
________________________________________________________________________________
OR
________________________________________________________________________________
F.I.D.O
Friends of Indianapolis Dogs Outside
317-592-9616

Food and toy aggression?

Growling, Snarling, Snapping Or Biting To Protect Food, Water Or Toys


Does your dog growl or snarl when someone comes too close to his toys or food? It is common for dogs to claim territory, food, toys, other dogs, and even people. This behavior can be generalized further, with dogs guarding anything. Resource guarding can be a dangerous behavior. While unsettling on its own, it is easy to envision a perfect storm that turns protection or guarding into full-blown aggression.

Resource Guarding is Caused By:

Instinct - In a dog pack, the leader, alpha, eats first and denies the others' attempts to encroach on his domain.

Lack of socialization - Dogs that have not been properly trained to give up their favorite items or yield their food bowl will demonstrate this unwanted behavior.

Fear - A dog that is afraid of people (adults and/or children) or animals will defend its resources, and itself, against the threat.

Dominance issues - In dominant cases, the dog sees himself at the top and is willing to exert that influence.

Actually trained that way - owners playing with the dog (tug of war), encouraging him to growl in protection over his toys.

Tips to Stop Resource Guarding

Resolving the issue begins with relationship exercises and redefining your dog's understanding of the resources themselves. It is normal for a dog to guard its resources. It is normal for people too, but we use locks and the police to safeguard our territory and a dog uses its teeth. In this case, we want to replace his current understanding with a new, more tolerant view of things.

Begin by picking up his toys and other items that he guards. Do this when he is away.

Allow him to have one toy at a time, and be the one that hands it to him.

When taking a toy from him, trade him for a different toy. It's best to give him one of the least valued toys first, and then trade him a better toy.

When he is eating, make it a habit to add pieces of food in there as he goes. Let him learn that a human hand by the food dish means chicken, hot dog, or beef in the bowl.

Note: If there is a chance your dog may snap or bite, do not put your hands near him. Instead, use a broom, or other long handled object.

The way to fix the behavior is to make giving up items a fun thing. By rewarding your dog with play and treats for trading his toys, by dropping good food items in his bowl while he eats, and other such exercises, you can condition him to see the presence of a human hand near his toys and food as a good thing that indicates better stuff coming his way. The stronger his belief in this, the lower the likelihood that he will bite someone for approaching him at the wrong time.

Caution: There is a difference between changing a dog's mindset and simply getting a dog to be quiet. The growl and snarl can be punished out of the dog, but if the underlying aggression remains, then he will simply skip the warning steps and go right to the bite. This is commonly what occurs when a dog is merely punished for incorrect behaviors instead of trained to see the world differently. It is much better to prepare your dog to enjoy and want interference.

Fun things you can teach your pet

When you are looking to interact with your pet in other ways, you can teach them fun tricks or games as well. Pets learn faster if they are having fun and it keeps them from getting bored wth the same old obedience routines. Often, if you identify what your pet already has an aptitude for, you can develop on that. Does your pet use his/her eyes or his/her nose more? And when I say PET I mean that cats can often learn to do many of these things too, it just usually takes more time and practice to convince a cat that this really IS fun! Below are some ideas to get you started:


Names of family members/pets: "Where's ________? Go find ________!"

Find it - teach a "sit" and "wait" while you go hide the item, then come back and release with, "OK! Go Find _____!" Start with the item close - even in the same room, and help her.

Find a person - teach a "sit" and "wait" while someone hides, and release with, "OK! Go find ______!" Or, if the person you want your dog to find is YOU, then, after you have hidden, call your dog! (your dog may need help in "waiting", at first, with another person holding her.

Hide & Seek

Catch - start with popcorn first, because it is light

Frisbee - start with dog close, first

Pick up your toys (and put them away!)

Walk between legs while you are walking (weaving in and out) - just one of the many Freestyle moves you can teach your dog!

Jump through a hula-hoop

Tricks: Give me 5
            roll over
            sit up
           play dead ("bang!")
           treat on nose
           speak
           high 5
"Touch" - teach touch with his nose. "Touch" the palm of my hand, "touch" the tip of a stick - this is the start of "target training".

You can make obstacles and create an "agility" course with things found around most homes: broomstick on the rungs of 2 chairs to create a jump, weave in and out of dowels stuck in the ground (about 18" apart) or ski poles, pause "box" with an old rug, jump through an old tire (the original agility tire jump!), kids' play tunnels can be found at toy stores...

Unroll a small rug. Roll it up and put a soft treat in the last couple of *rolls*. as your pet gets better at unrolling the blanket or rug to find the treat. Bury it deeper into the rolls until your pet can completely unroll the blanket or rug. They *find* their own reward by unrolling it!

Wave *bye bye*. Once you have taught your pet to "shake hands", you can utilize that for teaching them this trick. Hold a treat where they can see it and move your OTHER hand in a waving motion in front of their body. They will see this as *shake* and give you their foot. Keep waving your hand up and down until their foot follows your hand, then tell them GOOD BOY (or girl) and give them the treat. After practicing this several times they shyoudl start to *wave* their foot for you when given the command WAVE BYE BYE.

Tips to Increase Confidence

One thing I see (or hear of) a lot of in our training classes are owners over emphasising "It's OK' to their pet when they are afraid of something. All you do with that is tell them that, in fact, it is NOT ok and it makes them even more afraid. Our pets look to us for safety and comfort when they meet something that they are fearful of. Telling them it's Ok when it isn't, is a good way to teach your pet not to trust your judgement. Here are some simple *rules* in helping your pet to become more confident. 

NEVER tell dog it is OK when it is not


Emphasis on appropriate praise for appropriate behavior

PATIENCE, CONSISTENCY

Remove emotion, especially disappointment or anger!

Favorite treat and/or toy reserved for stressful times ONLY

"Strangers" should have special treats (they are "treat dispensers")

Obedience commands work to get dog thinking rather than reacting

Normal, matter of fact tones of voice conveys confidence

Teach a "watch me" command – watching you will keep your dog safe

Exposures to new things should be carefully planned, timed & supervised

ON LEASH when challenging situations happen

Backsliding is expected and prepared for

Teach thinking games at home: names of family, toys, places, objects...

Prevent hiding & cowering away from fearful things

Use a word or phrase in place of "It's OK" ("Oh, you're being SILLY!"). Use your matter of fact tone of voice to cue the dog to something OTHER than the fearful object or situation ("sit", "watch me", etc)

"Let's say hi" is a good phrase to cue your dog to interacting with strangers, and have plenty of tasty treats & jolly praise handy!

"Look" is good for introductions to potentially fearful objects, along with a jolly, confident attitude

Nipping in puppies

One of the biggest tools puppies have to learn with is their mouth - not only for vocalization, but to touch and feel and explore…and test their limits. Think about a litter of puppies playing. They are rough and tumble - they bite, nibble, and bark. If one puppy bites another too hard, the bitten puppy lets out a screech which usually is successful in getting the hard nipper to temper his bites. This is how puppies learn. A big part of learning isdong it wrong (so they can lern to do it right).


Puppies will test their limits with you, too. Nipping and mouthing is a big part of that testing. They mouth and grab hands, pant legs, skirts, etc. Part of how you teach a puppy to temper their biting lies back with how his litter mates taught him - a shrill shriek OUCH! to let him know he’s gone too far - even if it didn’t hurt that much. One thing that you are responsible for training this puppy - that should start early- is that under no circumstances should that puppy’s teeth ever come down on your skin hard enogh to leave a mark. They CAN learn to be gentle.

Ways to teach your puppy or dog to *be nice*:

I like the word "nice" or "easy" when I teach a dog to respect my skin. If my puppy gets wild and nippy, I will take his collar, after I let out a big "Ow!!", and give it a little tug and offer my hand back to the puppy and tell him, in a firm voice, "BE NICE!" If the puppy nips again, I repeat the command and tug a little firmer, "I said "BE NICE!" If the puppy licks your hand, sniffs it, or turns his head away, I tell him "GOOD NICE!!" and make sure my voice sounds pleased.

You can also "set up" teaching "NICE" to your dog. I get a bunch of small, soft treats and hold one in the fingers of one hand. In the other hand - I have the puppy’s collar, and he is sitting close to me. I offer the treat to the puppy and remind him that we are being "NICE". If he lunges for the treat, I give him a tug on his collar and remind him, "NO, NICE!" The same goes if he grabs the treat and any part of my hand or fingers. Remember NOT to move the hand that holds the treat. If you move the hand holding the treat you actually encourage your puppy to chase the treat. With this exercise, your puppy will eventually learn to take the treat without even touching your skin with his teeth.

Don't *teach* biting to your puppy
Never play hand games that will excite your puppy and encourage him to lunge for your hand. Chase games, especially for herding dogs will also encourage them to nip and bite at legs and heels. Not good! The best games to play are games involving fetch and toys. Any time you play with your puppy, make sure that you have a toy between you and the puppy. Never play tug of war with your puppy - that will only make your puppy think of himself as your equal.

At what age should training start?

Formal obedience training - puppy training in a class situation - can begin at 8 weeks of age. At Best Friends our *rules* are as soon as they have had their first two puppy shots and a bordatella they are ready to rock!


TRAINING of your puppy - the stuff you teach them at home - should start the day you bring your puppy home. Training at this stage should be done in many little lessons, in short spans of time (5-10 minutes per session). Puppies always learn better if you keep training light and fun so watch the tone of your voice as well.

Puppies and dogs learn from the instant they are born. At first their world is small and their learning comes from their mother, other littermates. By the time they are weaned and sent on their way to new homes, they have learned many things. Hopefully, they have had a good foundation set for future learning.

Learning is built on many factors:

Socialization - positive exposure to many different people, animals, environments, surfaces, situations, sounds, etc, and teaching the pup how to best react to new things

Innate personality - the set type of personality that all animals and people are born with.

In-home work with potty training, crate training, leash & collar training, teaching appropriate stuff to chew on, your household routine, words, basic home manners.

Training classes (Best Friends has an on going rotating schedule of classes!) - where you teach your puppy the essentials of obedience commands, manners, and ability to do everything with the distraction of other people and dogs.

Potty training basics in any age

It is an undeniable fact that our pets have to go potty. Puppies especially come to us with a basic thought, *If I have to, then I have to.* This pertains to eating, sleeping (ever see a pup fall over asleep in mid-play?), play AND going potty! Puppies do not understand anything more than that. It's up to us to develop that level of understanding to make life with a puppy fun not troublesome. Humans are the ones with all the rules, not them. Puppies are simply happy to take care of their needs the way they already know.
The most successful potty training methods consist of four steps:
1. Confinement
2. Training
3. Timing
4. Praise

Confinement
Puppies (or dogs who have never been housebroken) need to be confined in order to facilitate the easiest potty training. The most effective place to confine is in a crate or cage. In the beginning, don't leave anything on the bottom of the crate (blanket, newspaper, etc.). Your pet make make a project out of destroying it. Most dogs do NOT want to eliminate where they live, therefore the crate needs to be just large enough for your pet to turn around, stand up comfortably, or lay down. Anything larger will encourage your pet to potty at one end and sleep in the other. For large pets or puppies who will growto big big, use a crate that is sized for a larger pet and partition it to a smaller size using a homemade insert or a crate insert made by the crate company to fit your crate.

Training and Praise
When I teach a new dog (or puppy) where to potty, I use a leash. Leashes keep your dog close to you, where you can supervise and control everything that happens. Puppies, especially, are easily distracted. A blowing leaf, new flower, stick, another animal - all can take a puppy's mind off the matter at hand. If you are near the puppy (or dog) with the leash in hand, a gentle tug will redirect away from the curiosity. Leashes are also good to help teach an area to potty (behind the garage, etc.). With a leash, you just take your pet to the exact same area every time. Our pets are creatures of habit. they will learn to use the same spot if so directed in training.

I also teach words for elimination. This way, when the puppy understands what the words mean, he will understand WHAT I want as well as WHEN I want it to happen. My words are "go potty" for urination and "go poopie" for defecation. Your choice can be ANY word or phrase you want to use consistently (such as, hurry hurry, do your business, get busy, etc.). Remember when you choose your word or phrase that you will be repeating it over and over. Don't keep changing your words or you will just confue them so pick a phrase or a word that you are comfortable using.

As I take my dog outside on a leash, I start to teach him the word outside. "Let's go OUTSIDE!". "Do you have to go "OUTSIDE"? In time, the dog will learn that the word OUTSIDE is associated with going potty. Eventually you will be able to ask the dog "do you have to go OUTSIDE?" and get a response like barking, running to the door or tail wagging.

TIMING
The command or phrase should never be said in a firm or angry way and not in a soft or pleading way either - it is usually said in an encouraging tone. When elimination occurs, use a happy tone and repeat "GOOD Go Potty! Yay! Go Potty!". I choose to use words only to reinforce elimination, because petting or treats can interrupt the act. Verbal praise needs to happen DURING the act, not after! Usually dogs will urinate first, then defecate. You need to become familiar with your dog's habits so you can wait for defecation and use a command for it.

Who's the boss?

WHO'S THE BOSS?

It SHOULD be you!

Isn't it cute when a pet brings you his toy to play with, or nudges your knees for attention? Don't you find it hard to resist rewarding your pet with a cuddle when he pounces on your lap?
If you answer "yes" to these questions, you are doing your pet a disservice by teaching him to be "Leader of the Pack," and this can lead to problems down the road.
A pack can only have one leader, and in the dog world you're either the leader or the follower."

All dogs are born with a "pack instinct" that helps them determine where they stand in the family or group. When a dog enters your home, he expects to follow rules and obey the leader, who he should recognize as you. It is imperative that your pet learn his rank within your family's pack immediately. Dogs that know their place in the social hierarchy are generally content to maintain that position, and are more comfortable and secure.
The degree of self-confidence your dog possesses will guide your behavior. If you've got a timid little one you've got to let him win a few games. But if you've got an adult who's regularly challenging you, he's got to know his place.

There are several subtle ways to teach a puppy its place in the pack:
1) Make him move -- establish territory control. Don't walk around your dog if he's lying in your path - nudge him out of the way and force him to move for you. Similarly, don't allow your pet to go through doors before you.2) No access to furniture unless invited - this is your territory. Being allowed on your bed or couch is a privilege that must be earned (by being well-behaved and house-trained, of course).3) You eat first - in the wild, the pack leader always eats before the rest of the pack. Enjoy your meals, then feed your dog.4) No free rides - the puppy needs to learn that everything in his world is controlled by you, and anything he receives must be earned - including your affection and attention. Ask him to perform simple commands such as sitting before eating, and enforcing the "down-stay" while you clip on his leash.

Exposing your pet to as many people and situations as possible will reinforce his place among humans. Teach him to sit while you're greeting people, and praise him for friendliness. Teach your pet right from the start how to behave around children, and let him know that he is below them in the hierarchy.
If a dog's place in his pack is not determined from the outset, he may eventually challenge you for the leadership position. He can be manipulative, demanding and possibly aggressive. It is difficult to alter this behavior once a puppy has grown, so asserting your place as the "alpha dog" while the pup is young is advantageous. It's also easier to put a pushy puppy in his place than a full-grown adult dog.
Just like humans, all dogs need limits and have to follow rules. One of the keys to a good relationship is respect. Set boundaries, be firm, and offer rewards, including love and kindness. You'll find you'll both be happier.

Service Dog Hero

Since we have a Service Dog Training Class at Best Friend's, and this is one thing we can train someones dog to do for them if needed, I thought you might find this article interesting....

We've all seen the "I've fallen, and I can't get up!" commercials and chuckled, but what if you actually did fall and weren't able to get up? What if you couldn't even push a button to call for help? What would you do? That's the situation Scottsdale, Arizona resident Joe Stalnaker found himself in this past weekend, and thankfully someone else -- his dog -- was there to help him .

Joe suffered a head injury during military training ten years ago, and has had crippling seizures ever since. He adopted his dog Buddy at the age of just eight weeks, and trained the now 18-month-old German Shepherd to check on him and to press a button on the phone to dial 911 in case of an emergency. Over the weekend when Joe suffered a seizure that left him unable to move, Buddy made the call. Amazingly, this is the fourth time since Joe has owned him that he's managed this feat.

(If you do have a disability of some kind and have the need for a Service Dog to help you or someone you know even please give Best Friends Pet Care a call, (317) 841-8182. We CAN help you!)

Dog Calls 911, Saves Owner's Life
by Tim Stevens (RSS feed) — Sep 16th 2008 at 2:57PM

Best Friends Adult level training class

Welcome to our Adult Class. I can't label this one a *basic* or beginners class because we do happen to have a few more advanced ones in this class as well. Those who are at an advanced level have taken our beginners class already and are working toward going off leash and to hand signals. Though mixing the levels may seems little unorthodox to some, I think it is a good thing because it gives all those beginners hope for their future as well! This was week 3 in this class, and as you can see Patrick is not exactly feeling stressed by all the learning he has to do.

With the beginners in this class they are working on step three to the heeling on leash work.

We also have been working on getting them to SIT and LEAVE IT. Brandi is doing his best to learn this for his mommy!

With week three they are also beginning to learn the DOWN command. Which is easier for some dogs then it is for others. Emma Grace looks like she has it down *pat*.
One of the other things that we begin with training on in week three is the DOOR MANNERS. With our beginning Adults it is done differently then our advanced students, but hey we all have to start some place!

In our advanced Adult class we have a few that are working off leash part of the time. Their commands are all being worked to switch from voice to hand signals. These are dogs that have taken a few classes with us already and are working their way to go as far as they can in their obedience. Hey a well trained dog makes for a happy dog! It makes the owners happy too as you can see by Bonnie as she works her dog Amber.

One of our advanced level Adults proves that even a pet with a slight physical disability can be as well mannered as any one else. Harley (owner by one of our customer service girls Caitlin) has a disability with his back legs. We make a few accommodations for this but otherwise Harley is keeping right up there with everyone else. So his SITS aren't perfectly straight...at least he
sits when told. We aren't trying to turn our pets into little furry robots anyway!

Emma Grace has had some training already but her mom wanted a refresher course and for her to learn the things she hadn't learned yet so we can get Emma ready for her CGC testing. Go Emma Grace!

Each dog has its own rate of ability in the learning curve so one may pick up heeling faster then the next where one may learn to sit a lot faster. The important thing for each owner to remember is PATIENCE, LOVE, and COMMITMENT. It will get you through the worst days and keep you focused on the good ones. And face it, our pets all have brains, they have the ability to think for themselves and sometimes, even out think us! There WILL be good days and bad days with them. The best you can do for them is to not give up, focus on the bigger picture and keep working with them. Our methods here are tried and true. Once you've gotten your pet to the point of training you want to reach with them (with us the skies the limit!) both of you will be happy and better for it.

Welcome to our Training Blog

I've been training with animals (dogs and horses) for many years. In my background I've trained dogs for myself and others for Obedience Competition, for Tracking, Water Rescue, Confirmation, Agility and more recently our Service Dog program.

With Best Friends, we hold an on going rotating basis of advancing levels in Obedience classes. We begin with our Puppy Kindergarten classes (which I happen to LOVE because the puppies never fail to make us laugh and feel good) and run up through Adult Basic 1 to several levels of Adult Advanced classes. The classes all run for 6 weeks and in them we learn things like Heeling on a leash (yyeaahh no more being dragged from here to Kingdom-Come!), sit, lay down, stay, come when called and we work on a Leave It command and on door manners. We also hold a question and answer period at the end of each class, where if you are having particular problems at home with your pets, I can give you ways of working to correct those at home. My job is mainly to teach YOU how to train your pets and to make sure you both are getting it all put together in the right way. I keep my classes to a smaller number so that I can work with each one of you individually to meet your pets specific needs/tasks. By the end of 6 weeks, if you and your pet work together you will have a great foundation to keep working on. Not to worry though, I never leave you at the door when class is done. Whether it's at the end of the night or the end of the 6 weeks, if you have problems call our center! I'm available to help with your issues.

I have a new class running now that has become a favorite of mine. It's our Service Dog class. For those who have a physical or emotional need for a companion animal to assist them in their daily tasks, we can help you to train your own dog. There are certain guidelines we have to follow in pets who can train to do this. For instance if you need help in getting out of your chair or bed a Maltese won't work. At the same time if you need more of an emotional assistant perhaps a Shibu Inu wouldn't be your best choice.

We have 3 dogs in the current class and we are into our 7th week of training. Not only are they learning to behave in public, but they are each learning specific tasks to help their owners. Keep a watch for us out in the malls and local restaurants. If you see is say Hi but please remember, a Service Dog in training is not to be petted!

If you find yourself with a new puppy, an older dog with obedience and manner issues or have the need for a Service Dog please feel free to come by our center at 8224 Bash Street, Indianapolis In and meet with me. If you prefer you can call (317)841-8182 and ask to speak to me. If I am not in feel free to ask when I will be in again or leave a message and I will call you back when I do come in.

If you would like to sit in on a class to see how they run please feel free, I always welcome visitors! Just call us ahead of time to find out about our class schedule.

Best Friends Indy Dog Training Blog

Coming Soon- Best Friends Dog Training Blog!